Whipcords And Cavalry Twills collection

This collection combines two-storied weaves of durable, robust British cloth - whipcord and cavalry twill, in one 29-strong collection.

WHIPCORD
First up are the whipcords. This quality is characterised by a steep, pronounced single twill weave on the surface or ‘face’ of the cloth. Spun of all wool, whipcords are woven to produce a smooth hand with a mélange twill face and a soft, lightly napped reverse. The quality is also referred to as a ‘covert’ or ‘covert coat’, after the popular short topcoats of the same name made from this fabric.

There are 19 whipcord articles, all in solid mélange twill shades ranging light to dark from the iconic fawn (WB16201) to brown, navy and charcoal. The quality is a mid-weight 13oz pure wool and the fabric is durable and hardwearing. It is frequently tailored as plain front or forward-pleat trousers and pairs nicely with suede chukka boots, brushed cotton shirts, tweed jackets or a navy blazer. The cloth can also be tailored handsomely into a light topcoat, perhaps with a contrast velvet collar, fly front closure and four rows of ‘tramline’ stitching around the cuffs and hem as often styled in the above-knee-length English covert coat, a staple of any well-dressed modern man’s wardrobe.

CAVALRY TWILL
Following the whipcords and starting with cream-coloured article WB16220 are the 10 styles of cavalry twills. Each style is presented in the heavier weight 21 oz/ 600g wool quality, and again range in colour from light to dark, in this instance from the truly exceptional cream to darker shades of olive, brown, navy, charcoal and finally black. A sturdy, hardwearing fabric, cavalry twill features a steep double diagonal twill design with wide wales paired in close, parallel proximity. It was traditionally used for raincoats and riding breeches. As its name suggests, it was first associated with military uniforms made for cavalry regiments and moved into civilian dress through equestrian attire. Because the cloth is so durable, riding jackets and jodhpurs are frequently made of cavalry twill, and more recently, the cloth has become a staple of the smart country and weekend wardrobe. Fashionably tailored as a plain front trouser enlivened with side strap and buckle detail, cavalry twill trousers look best with plain hems rather than turn-ups owing to the weight and thickness of the cloth. This quality also looks fantastic as a military-style overcoat (the iconic British Warm comes to mind in camel-coloured style number WB16221, with its distinctive epaulettes, leather buttons, and double-breasted panache). So, whether you’re riding to hounds, or simply riding the tube, cavalry twill ensures you’re riding in style.